my love of sewing my Saori weaving into garments

My second blog for 2021 is about my saori weaving cut and sewn into my designs for wearable are…

Let me start with "painting with  threads " duster next blog will have more clothing and accessories, but i want to reserve this one just for this duster.

 my student Joi trying on my jacket 

it started back in november I looked through my saved Saori stashed weavings and decided to sew a new coat…  first I designed it then made a muslin to make sure it would fit and to make sure I had enough yardage as well  then I started cutting out 

I wanted gussets but i was running out yardage so I went into my  hand woven stash and found some contrasting saori yardage that I ended up using.

This is my main yardage woven in 2018 all this is mostly cottons.

 first basting together check for fit this took me another month from the cutting out…..

 then I needed  think on the details  still incubating….

I added  the collar and lapels worked on the lower sleeves another month went by as the piece slowly emerges.
 

finely it told me " I am done! just 2 days ago I finished it .

CLICK ARROW FOR THE SLIDE SHOW

 

how do I feel about  IT?

Well I feel exhilarated  when i see it! And have it on .. 
the main woven fabric was not one of my favorites at all in fact it was rather ugly to me! ! That is why it seems so magical now! Everyone should just weave lots of yardage any color ! It is only then that you can get past your mind influencing you in its over used stale color combos ! You need to banish those thoughts from creeping in! Never be afraid of color! Color is a room of friends from all over the globe full of diversity and intrigue!

peace through fibers 

Jill Nickolene Sanders

WWW.SAORISANTACRUZ.COM

 

checking in from SAORI SANTA CRUZ and catching up from a few months break, reviewing the spinolution Paulywinder .

 Hi everone!  I am fine, I took a break for a few months with covid 19 peaking,  the usa election and and the capitol insurgence ,the weird holidays, I just kind of wanted to crawl under my bed  till calmness prevailed ! but all along I was spinning  weaving and sewing  this will be  my first of two  catch up blogs!

I would like to start off with a review of the SPINOLUTION PAULYWINDER ! what is the paulywinder? well if you spinners know about the woolee winder company it is similar but this one is totally engineered by Mike Pauly the  founder and CEO of spinolution. 

the only thing it has in comon with the wooleewinder is the fact you do not have to stop and move your yarn manualy over hooks to distribute it on the bobbin. the spinolution paulywinder is AMAZING.

The paulywinder does not have intricate gears or special bobbins needed with cogs, nor does it have that tug that wooleewinders have. instead you use your regualr spinolution standard bobbins, or the 3 d printed ones . The filling up is automatic but it is gentle natural draw in , it also handels fatter singles like in the photos i spun a thick thin yarn . i put the paulywinder on my 16 oz bullfrog flyer. it was great BUT i realized that with the spinolution models  that you can not change heads with ie ( the bees, bull frog) i could only spin with the pauly winder not change it out to spin other thickness of yarns! so I took it off my bullfrog and put it on the firefly 16 oz head instead, because that flyer is interchangable.

I put my spinolution skein winder accessory on the built in bull frog lazy kate and skeined  off my yarn.

 my merino silk singles and plied coils… clearly I am in love with the paulywinder! 

here is the extender for the firefly so you can use the paulywinder  easily 

now my paulywinder is on firefly but you can change out heads( flyers) on ther spinolution monarch, and echo models as well

 and I am happily spinng away in bliss!

 the bobbin filling has hills and valleys  along the way but no worries , it is more organic but it eventually evens out to a nicely wound bobbin .

once you adjust ther fulcrum screw ( mine need the slightest small turn ) you are good to sit back and spin and spin and spin and spin i had 8 oz spun in no time!

 I switched out my 16oz head  on my firefly with the paulywinder on it  for the 32 oz , and plied this silk Blend singles into art yarn…( still in progress)

catch me destressing with my spinolution wheels weekly! spinolution firefly here 

see all the spinolution wheels and accessories here spinolution listings in my ETSY shop but if you need more info or want to buy email me my email 

peace through fibers  Jill Nickolene Sanders

WWW.SAORISANTACRUZ.COM

Weaving a hand spun throw on my Ashford rigid heddle loom

 Winter is coming so I warped up another hand spun art yarn for the warp and weft throw on my Ashford 32' rigid heddle loom with the the freedom roller.

I balled up my art yarn skeins it use for the warp, and used my 2.5 size reed on my BUY ASHFORD RIGID HEDDLE LOOM HERE

 i used all hand spun yarns with the exception  of a commerical mohair harn i used here in and there 

CONED MOHAIR YARNS CLICK HERE 

 IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A LONG ENOUGH ROOM TO WIND YOUR WARP YOU CAN DO WHAT I DID WALK OUT THE FRONT DOOR TAKE A  MEDIUM SIZE IRWIN ADJUSTABLE BAR CLAMP  AND CLAMP I IN PLACE OF THE WHIMPY PEG AND CLAMPS THAT COME WITH ALL BFRANDS OF RIGID HEDDEL LOOMS . CLAMP IT  ON A CHAIR OR LIKE I DID THE DECK RAILING 

  Now to choose my weft hand spun yarns 

 I always love weaving with my ski shuttles click here  they come is 2 sizes 20" and 25" either size is indispensable  i only use the bifurcated ( 2 separate cleats ) style so that i can wrap yarns or fabric etc in a figure 8.

the low profile of the ski shuttles click here fits in the shed and allow the shuttle to glide along with out drag like stick shuttle do.

instead of using the reed/heddle  to beat i use my fingers, or a comb .weaving combs 

why? on my throws the set is so open that it allows for this technique also it save wear and abrasion on the hnad spun warp yarns.

 

 all this weaving of bulky yarns would not be possible with the unique ashford buy freedom roller for ashford loom herenormally a rigid heddle loom holds but  a few yards but with  bulky yarns you can barely get 2 yards on the cloth beam . I  got 6 yarns finished cloth here using the freedom roller, you can get even more, it is amazing. 

 i measured 1/2 of the cloth on the beam it was 4" so a roll of cloth 8" or more fit on the freedom roller!!!!

 OFF THE LOOM READY TO CUT IN HALF 

  AND I HAND SEWED TO GETHER WITH A KNITTING DARNING NEEDLE both sections 

 SOAKED IN HOT WATER FOR A HOUR WITH EUCLAN WOOL WASH CLICK HERE

 Drying on the deck rail in the autum sun

 fringes tied all done!

PEACEFUL WEAVING AND SPINNING IN CALIFORNIA REDWOODS

JILL NICKOLENE SANDERS

WWW.SAORISANTACRUZ.COM

find rigid heddle looms in my second Etsy shop here

  studio is still closed for classes because of covid19  but i can ship orders or do drive way covid pick up